Wednesday, 12 September 2012

Volcano chasing


Over the past few months, I've taken full advantage of living within the Pacific Ring of Fire and experienced up-close some real-life, active volcanoes.
Port Vila = surrounded by volcanoes. Plenty to choose from!
Now those of you who know my history with active volcanoes may be wondering why I would choose to deliberately tempt fate and seek out these amazing natural wonders. (Those who don’t – multiple flight cancellations on previous travel adventures due to both the Iceland volcano in 2010 and Chile volcano in 2011). An attempt to make amends with the volcano gods maybe?

I started small, with an extinct volcano on the island of Nguna. Not much chance of this baby erupting. A beautiful trek up the side of the volcano, followed by a tour of the rim, and a walk inside the crater, which is now a lush garden filled with coconut palms and water taro. We did hear some stories of locals kayaking within the crater after large amounts of rain, and some rogue chickens that were released by villagers inside the crater in the hope they would breed. We saw no evidence of either of these, and I think the ni-vans were just having a laugh at our expense. But there were some amazing views of Efate and the Shephard Islands from the top. Ok, tick that one off the list.
On the rim - lush garden inside the crater and 360 degree island views
Chilling out inside the crater with the crew
Next challenge, the island of Ambrym, which has two active volcanoes accessible on foot, Benbow and Maroum. Both volcanoes on Ambrym are known more for their amazing ash plains than their spectacular eruptions, although I have heard that Maroum is one of the most active volcanoes in Vanuatu. There is a history of several destructive eruptions per century, the last big one being in 1913 which wiped out the hospital and caused mass evacuation. Statistics not looking good, but “when in Vanuatu”, right? Our two-day trek commenced with a few hours walking across the most amazing desert landscape of the ash plane, along ridges and through valleys. The silence was absolute, not a living plant or animal in sight. 
Like walking on another planet
Amazing trekking scenery
A gruelling climb up the side of Benbow resulted in a view straight across the crater (although it was too smoky to see too far down). But it was Maroum volcano, another hour or so walk away, that truly mesmerised us. We were extremely lucky with the weather – blue skies and a light breeze to clear the smoke from the lava bubbling away below. A clear view across the crater and down 200 metres or so to a pulsing, bubbling sea of red. I found it more relaxing than scary, and even our guides said we were very lucky to have such a clear view. After a night camping on the ash plain, we continued our trek north on Day Two, leaving a red glow in the sky behind us.
Endless ash plain
How's this for a campfire? Good luck toasting marshmallows on this one!
Ok, not so bad. Maybe the volcano gods are pleased with my peaceful offerings. The third and ultimate challenge: Mt Yasur volcano on the island of Tanna. I decided to take Shelley for the ride on this one (I do not take responsibility, she knew full well of my history with volcanoes prior to agreeing to take this trip with me!) It all started to turn pear-shaped two weeks before we were due to go (just two days after I had booked our flights to Tanna of course) with a security alert from my In-Country Manager stating that Yasur volcano is off limits until further notice due to an increase in volcanic activity. It had been upgraded from a Level 2 to a Level 3 – moderate to large eruptions, and danger near the crater. Hmm… Maybe I jumped the gun a bit on curing my volcano luck. We decided to still go to Tanna and hope that by the time we got there, it wasn’t quite so angry.
Mt Yasur - looking serene and harmless from this angle
After some conflicting reports on whether the danger level had been downgraded again or not, we took a chance (and some advice from some locals who seemed to be in the know) and took a truck to Yasur. The one security measure, a sign in the carpark stating “Think Safety”, was not overly reassuring! But we decided to trust our local guide and hope that his understanding of the volcanic activity was as good as he assured us it was.
The extent of our safety briefing
Ok, Thinking Safety! Fingers crossed...
The experience of Yasur was amazing and incredible and terrifying. Standing close to the rim, feeling frequent rumbles which reverberate through your ear drums and chest, followed by an eruption into the sky and a shower of molten volcanic rock falling back down into the crater. Due to the increase in activity, we took heed of the locals’ advice not to venture around the other side of the crater. Some not-so-smart tourists ignored this advice and still did, only to have one particularly large eruption throw volcanic boulders over their heads and land only metres away. This is mother nature at its most primal, and not something to be messing around with! If a rock did happen to take a different course, there would be not much hope for someone standing in its path! There have been a couple of fatalities in recent years, some locals and tourists who got a bit too close.

We watched the sunset from the crater rim, and were captivated by the eruptions against the backdrop of the darkening sky. Finally, when one large eruption sent a boulder the size of a couch landing only 50m from us, we decided we had tempted fate for long enough for one day and retreated to the safety of the truck. The next two nights were spent staying in a bungalow at the base of the volcano, with frequent rumbles and explosions heard throughout the night (some of which shook the walls of the local bungalow we were sleeping in). An experience of a lifetime!
Incredible view (and slightly terrifying)
More and more spectacular as night fell
Maybe I should quit while I’m ahead? But I am sure if another opportunity arises over the next few months I will hard pressed not to jump at the chance to add another volcano to my list.

Friday, 31 August 2012

A week in another world...


So I’ve hit the 6 month mark of my time here in Vanuatu, and it definitely feels like home now. I have managed to master the language, established a good social group, and have a pretty good idea of the best places to eat, drink and play around town. In recent months I’ve been kept busy with lots of visitors (Jess & Mike, Averil & Steph, and then Shelley) followed by a week in Australia (a jam-packed week of catch ups, coffee and brunch, bridesmaid dress shopping and family time). 
Jess & Mike at the races
Taking visitors on an island escape
Good times in Tanna
Hello Melbourne!
Returned to Port Vila for 4 days, then off to the island of Ambae for a work trip. This particular trip summed up life in Vanuatu pretty well, highlighting the need to be flexible and embrace “island time”. Enjoy!

Monday:
5.30am: Wake up. Madly run around packing for a week on a remote island. No need to pack any electronics – no power to charge anything. Essentials: head torch, toilet paper, conservative clothing. Check!
6.30am: Arrive at the airport for my 7.30am flight. Redirected to the international terminal despite it being a domestic flight (don’t ask questions, just accept). Almost lose my pocket knife through security screening (not usually a problem here for domestic flights).
8.30am: Arrive in Santo. Two hours to kill before I need to check in for my next flight to Walaha, Ambae. Jump on the bus that volunteer David’s work has organised for him (he is here for the week for some meetings) for a ride into town. Meet volunteer Lou B in town for a coffee meeting (small work discussed) and explore Luganville before jumping in a taxi back to the airport to check in for my next flight.
10.30am: Check in my bags and meet up with Lou G (yes there are two volunteers called Lou who both live in Luganville!) and Jacqui – my two colleagues and room mates for the week. Sit chatting until our designated boarding time.
12 noon: boarding time has been and gone. Scheduled departure time has also passed. Still chatting.
12.45pm: Small plane lands at Luganville airport. Unloads and refuels. We prepare to be called for boarding.
1.00pm: Boarding call for passengers flying to Sola (not for us). After inquiring as to the whereabouts of our flight, we are informed that this plane needs to fly to Sola (1 hr away) then will return to pick us up and take us to out destination. Expect another 2 ½ hour wait at least, but do not want to leave the airport in case plans change again.
2.15pm: Airport official finally informs us that our flight for today has been cancelled. Another flight should be going tomorrow (sometime, hopefully). Make arrangements to stay in Santo for the night. Call our contacts in Ambae to inform them that we will not be arriving today (they don't seem overly surprised or concerned, although we later found out that some committee members had walked 2 hours to be there for our arrival, only to turn around again). Try again tomorrow.
Walaha airport - slightly bumpy grass runway
Tuesday:
9am: Use the morning taking a tour of the hospital and scheduling another coffee meeting. Phone call from Air Vanuatu confirmed a new flight for lunch time today.
11am: Check in for our flight.
12.30pm: Finally in the air, en route to Ambae (only a 20 min flight from Luganville, who would have thought it would be so tricky).
1pm: Arrive in Walaha. Truck awaits to take us to our accommodation, and then onto the “opening ceremony” for our week of work. Greeted at our guesthouse by four hospitality students and two owners of the guesthouse (slight overkill for only the three of us checking into a guesthouse consisting of two bungalows) who take our details for registration, present us with fresh coconuts and show us to our room - basic but comfortable with an ensuite and flush toilet - a luxury!
1.30pm: Continue on to the workshop venue (a purpose built bamboo shelter). Opening ceremony consists of singing, dancing, praying, raising of a flag and presentation of salu salu (island leis). Required to make small “toktok” in Bislama to thank the committee for their warm welcome.
3.00pm: Time for a relax at the guesthouse and an early night before a big day of work tomorrow.
Spel smol
Wednesday:
8.30am: Set out with Lou G (Australian volunteer physio) and four local committee members for a day of home visits on foot. Leave Jacqui to run disability and sign language workshop. Lucky for an overcast day – lots of walking today. Manage to see six kids and one adult for assessments and advice clinics – goals of these visits were to take details and photos to add to database, conduct feeding assessments and assess for equipment needs. Difficult to do too much more in a one-off visit. LOTS of walking – covered most of west Ambae on foot, walking between villages on public roads, private roads and through the bush. Ate lunch sitting on a grave next to a church. Pleasantly surprised at how well-presented and cared-for all the children were – disability inclusion and awareness seems to be a lot better here than what I have encountered in some other places in Vanuatu. A few tears from grateful parents who are used to receiving false promises. This is the first visit of any health professional to the area, let alone two at once.
6.00pm: Arrived back at the meeting place to dinner prepared for us by the committee – a huge mound of white rice topped with 2-minute noodles and tuna. Interesting combination!
One grateful family
Thursday:
6.30am: Woke after a terrible nights sleep. Achey legs, headache, sore throat, blocked nose. Don’t think I’ll be going far today! Saw Lou off for another day of walking – mostly adults today so hopefully I won’t be needed too much. Back to bed.
5.00pm: Slept most of the day. No energy. Was filled in on the day’s events by Lou, who walked even further than yesterday and saw 16 adults today – I wouldn’t have lasted so it was a good thing I decided to stay behind. Decided against attempting the walk up the hill for the “closing ceremony” – Lou and Jacqui attending on my behalf. Back to bed!
*Closing ceremony consisted of more singing, prayers, dancing, “toktok” and presentation of local homemade mats and baskets as a thankyou to us for coming. Also lots more rice, noodles and a cake. Shame to have missed it but don’t think I could have sat through the three-hour ceremony feeling the way I was.

Friday:
7.00am: Time to pack up and get to the airport for our flight.
8.30am: Arrive at the airport. Joined by six committee members to see us off and thank us again.
11.00am: Plane delayed… surprise surprise.
11.30am: Plane finally arrives. People disembarking unhappy to find out that the plane was overweight when leaving Santo so their luggage had been left behind (they were not informed of this before leaving Santo). Their luggage should come sometime tomorrow (maybe…). I watch my luggage being loaded onto the plane before embarking.
12 noon: Arrive in Santo. Proceed to Lou’s for some lunch, and then crash out on her couch for more sleep – virus has taken hold. Tell myself that despite the horror stories, I do not have malaria or dengue (quick course of antibiotics on return to Vila for a chest infection and I’m now back on my feet again). Return to the airport at 5.30pm for evening flight back to Vila.
7.15pm: Flight leaves with only a 15 minute delay. Must be a miracle!

Monday, 2 July 2012

All in a day's work


So you must all be wondering where I actually fit in time for any work, what with all the diving, trekking and trips to the islands. Work hasn’t featured a lot in my blog entries to date, so it must be about time to let you know what I’ve been up to during business hours.

A bit of background: my assignment here is an AVID assignment through Austraining International, funded by AusAID. I have been assigned to work with the Vanuatu Society for Disabled People to set up Early Intervention services for children with disabilities. My assignment outcomes include (but are not limited to) improving access to facilities and services in the community; increasing disability awareness; and creating a higher profile for disabilities in Vanuatu… Easy, right? I should be able to achieve all of that in 12 months! Hah!

So lets start small. My number one goal on arrival was to restart an early intervention group that had been running last year, but had folded due to a lack of staff (local or expat) to run it. My “Pikinini Group” is now running two mornings a week for two hours. There wasn’t much info on what had been done before, so I have developed a simple program loosely based on some multidisciplinary programs run in Northam. I have a regular group of kids attending - about 15 accessing the service and averaging about 6 kids per session. This has been made a whole lot easier thanks to a large amount of donated books, puzzles and toys from Australia – a huge thanks to friends, family, Northam colleagues and the Shoalhaven Crossroaders for all your generous donations! The program consists of a schedule of activities targeting a range of developmental skills through stories, songs, craft activities, dancing, obstacle courses and play. So far this has been a huge success – the families that attend really value the service and I have already seen huge improvements in the children’s skills!
Play dough time in Pikinini Group!
The next hurdle is to source a local counterpart who I can train up to run the group in the long term – it is not exactly sustainable if I continue to run the group as it will most likely fold again when I leave in February. This is proving to be a little more challenging. The society that I am working for currently receives NO funding (not from the government, not from donors, not from grants, nothing). There are only 3 paid staff members – one field worker, one accounts worker and the director. They are only just surviving off the sales from a car, which was donated by an expat lady who was leaving the country, but this is fast running out. This means that they will soon not have money to pay their power and phone bills, let alone fund programs and resources… The frustrating thing is, there are two case workers who travelled to Fiji two years ago to complete training in disability, however since returning there has not been any funding to pay them a wage and so their skills are not being utilised – these two local people are currently working elsewhere, not in the disability sector. So my current priority is to try to find some funds to secure at least one of these workers back on the team! In a country where everyone is looking for funding to run one program or another, grants and pools of money are quite competitive, but I am hopeful that something will come along soon!

Another issue we are currently working to overcome is the state of the VSDP building. My office is an old demountable that is not secure, is falling apart (the kitchen has been condemned and there are holes in the walls) and requires a lot of repair and maintenance. We do have quite a nice therapy space, with a mural that was painted by the women from the prison next door, but when there is no running water in the tap in the bathroom, the work environment is not ideal! The Port Vila Rotary club have teed up with Rotary New Zealand, and are planning repairs and extensions to the building through a series of Busy Bees, including a fence to secure the area, an outdoor play area – very exciting! – new kitchen and bathroom, and eventually new offices, with part of the building being demolished. Construction is due to start next month, which will be great!

A group of women in Port Vila have also recently formed their own NGO called Friends of People with Special Needs, whose role will be to fundraise, lobby and apply for grants and equipment for the centre. There is certainly a lot of good will around, and I am hopeful that we can really make a change. It’s quite motivating to have so many people wanting to help out!

I do have a loose kind of “multidisciplinary team” that I am working with here:

- Sue is an Occupational Therapist from Australia, full time mum of 7 month old Jesse and wife of Frank. Frank is carrying out a volunteer assignment in agriculture here, but has a keen interest in disability and can be quite handy with wheelchair adjustments and repairs! Sue and Frank have been in Vanuatu for 3 years or so, and have been a great resource for me finding my feet here and filling me in on what has been done in the past and how everything works. Sue is very keen to get in and help out, and we have done many a home visit over recent weeks with Jesse and their house girl Mercy in tow.

- There is one local case worker, Tom, who I share an office with. Tom has an interest in wheelchairs and is a great resource for locating families and getting in contact with new clients. Also a great opportunity for me to practice my Bislama as much as possible!

- Elison is the executive director of VSDP, a chief from the island of Pentecost with a heart of gold and lots of great ideas, just limited time and resources to follow them up.

- Dunstan is our accounts worker, also from Pentecost, and gets around on crutches due to childhood polio. Another great person to practice my Bislama with, and he often comes to find me to tell me to “spel smol” (take a short break) and “storian” (have a chat) with him in Bislama.

And that’s it for current staff! Hence there was a lot of excitement when I arrived, and a lot of hope placed in my being here. I am feeling a bit of pressure to deliver and create something sustainable that may have a chance of standing on its own two feet after I leave!

In the meantime, I am getting huge job satisfaction out of helping children and families at an individual level. As well as the group, I have been trying to get out and see some children at home. This is often easier said that done, and can be a bit of a logistical nightmare to organise at times, with no addresses, disconnected phones, a language barrier and limited transport - but hugely valuable to see the kids in their home environment and the limitations that go along with it.

Community visits have been made somewhat easier by my discovery of a community bus that we are able to use for free on the odd occasion when it is available. I am hoping to find a local bus driver who is happy to help out so that we can set up regular clinics, but for now I’m it! So I have been driving a left hand drive, manual, 12 seater transit van through the disorganised and pot-holed streets of Vila, through informal settlements with one-way dirt roads and potholes that turn into swimming pools after rain, undertaking 7-point turns in order to find my way out again. I’m telling you, it is an experience!!

So in short, my job has taken a turn from Speech Pathologist to “generic therapist”, wheelchair technician, bus driver, first aider (fixing various sores and infections of pikinini I encounter along the way as well as taking one to the hospital last week with a suspected asthma attack), and everything in between. A few additional skills to add to the resume!

One of my biggest highlights of the job so far has been a week with a Physiotherapist from an organisation called Altus Resource Trust in Auckland. Altus run programs throughout the Pacific, sourcing equipment and traveling to countries for about a week at a time running therapy clinics. We have been liaising with Altus for a couple of months, sending photos and information on clients we are working with, and they have sourced some wheelchairs and equipment for us that they arranged to be shipped over (my dealings with customs to get them through with the minimal fees and taxes possible are another story, for another time, but frustrating!!!). This resulted in a week with Sue (OT), Sue (Altus Physio) and Susannah (SP) – easy to remember names! - travelling around Port Vila and Efate carrying home visits and fitting wheelchairs and pushers for kids (and some adults) with a range of disabilities.

Some highlights of our week with Altus in pictures:
(The families have consented to me sharing these pictures with you)
One happy camper with her new "truck"
These two brothers have an unknown diagnosis - they both reportedly developed normally for the first couple of years of life, but then got sick. Neither of the boys are able to sit independently, so prior to fitting them with chairs they were constantly either lying down inside at home or being carried. A wonderful, caring family to work with.
Doctor Suz to the rescue - re-dressing some nasty looking infected sores on this little one, whose legs were severely burned in a fire 2 years ago when a mosquito net caught alight. Poor thing is petrified of white people - but her legs are healing nicely! We have given her a pusher for transport in the interim while she waits for a wheelchair.
One of the more challenging wheelchair fittings - a gorgeous seven-year-old with hydrocephaly
Making friends with the locals
"Truck blong Anna" - we managed to get a small smile out of her as we were leaving!
The week was a huge success, we were able to provide seven kids and two adults with appropriate seating and transportation and provide the families with hope that they never thought they would receive! And Sue is hoping to come back in about 4 months time to follow up, and possibly bring an OT and a wheelchair technician from Altus along as well.

I’m sure there is lots more to tell, but I might leave the work update on that positive note. I hope there are a lot more success stories to follow!

Until next time, ale gudnaet.

Wednesday, 30 May 2012

Those crazy Pentecost-ians!

Well, it has been a while between updates. Last weekend marked 3 months on the island, and things have been fairly busy (in a relaxed island-time kind of way).

Visitors have been and gone, with more on the way. First up, Mum and Dad came for a week just after Easter, bringing with them a suitcase full of goodies (mostly for work, but some for me as well!). Highlights of their stay included Dad experiencing a magnitude 6 earthquake whilst lying in a hammock; Mum enjoying mastering the local buses with frequent detours through a village to drop off and pick up various Mamas and pikinini; a visit to my work to help out with my early intervention group (although Dad could not be coaxed to participate in the Hokey Pokey, much to my disappointment); a cruise on a yacht out to Moso island for some of the most amazing snorkelling I have ever seen; and visiting my kastom Mama and Papa in Siviri, where I went for my village stay. Despite some typical wet season weather (there’s nothing quite like tropical rain), I managed to show them the main sights of Vila and had just enough sunshine to still enjoy some snorkelling and waterfalls.
There's some familiar faces - a coffee stop on our way around the island
Snorkelling at Moso Island
A refreshing dip at Blue Lagoon
Last week I had Nicole here for 6 days, and again the weather came over wet and windy. With the cooler season setting in, it was also quite cold for Nic’s stay, and I actually wore a jumper for the first time since I’ve been here! We had to change our original plans slightly (the boat ride out to one of the islands would not have been pleasant), but the loan of my housemate’s quad bike certainly came in handy for the week and we had a great time (it just meant we had to go for a massage rather than a snorkel, tough life…).
Quad biking around Efate
The sun came out just in time for Emma, Matt, William and Patrick to come to Vila for the day on the cruise ship, and we had a magical time at Hideaway Island and the cascades. The boys’ 5- and 8-year old excitement made the whole day thoroughly enjoyable (squeals of delight at seeing real coral and rainbow fish whilst snorkelling in waist deep water, and swimming in a waterfall that was “even better than the one in the Chipmonks movie!”) I think they all would have slept well back on the ship that night!
Birch family happy snaps
The weather has fined up again since Nic left – I think she took the rain with her!

I’m also slowly ticking off some other islands of Vanuatu from my travel list, with a trip to Pentecost last weekend. 
Flying over an active volcano on the way to Pentecost
Lonorore Airport
A group of us ventured to the large island to the north for the annual Nanggol or land diving ceremony. Basically a bunch of crazy blokes from the villages on Pentecost build a rickety tower out of bamboo and branches, tie vines around their ankles and jump off head first (it is believed that this ritual is the grass roots of modern day bungy jumping).
Nanggol
Ok there may be a bit more to it than that… The tower is actually a bit more sturdy that it looks at fist glance, with a lot of thought and strategy going into the locations of the platforms, the way the vines are tied, and the way the structure snaps in certain places to break the diver’s fall. But I stand by my crazy comment.
And he wasn't even jumping from the top!
The Nanggol is considered a right of passage into manhood for young boys, with some as young as 8 years old jumping from the lower platforms of the tower. The more experienced older men jump from the higher platforms, with 15 jumps all up. Throughout the ritual, men in nambas and women in grass skirts dance and chant in encouragement. It is supposedly quite safe (although they hit the ground, the slope and softening of the ground by turning it over breaks their fall), but there are still reports of injuries and the odd death in the past – mostly put down to bad spirits, or preparation rituals not being followed correctly. Needless to say, it was an incredible ritual to experience - a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity!
Preparing to jump
Dancing pikinini
After the Nanggol we took a truck to a nearby village for the rest of our weekend stay – a lovely, quaint, basic but comfortable guesthouse on the beach where we spent our time swimming at the waterfall, snorkelling, playing and singing with the village children, and relaxing with a deck of cards and a book. I had arranged prior to our visit for the chief of the village to take me to see a couple of children with cerebral palsy in nearby villages for work. The rest of the group came along for the hour and a half trek up to the village on top – a lovely steep walk with some incredible views, to a village that had never before been visited by so many white people at one time (there were 6 of us!). I managed to complete a feeding assessment, fashion a drinking cup out of my plastic water bottle, and check over a wheelchair (not exactly my forte but Jane and Jo, you would have been proud!)
The walk back down from the village
Our own private beach
The waterfall
Lush scenery
It is such a different world and pretty special to be immersed into another culture, if only for a few days. I find it quite humbling and everyone I have come across in the villages have been so welcoming and accommodating, friendly and generous. This is definitely the real Vanuatu, away from the hustle and bustle and westernisation of Vila, and I hope to spend a lot more time in villages throughout the islands over the next 9 months while I’m here.
Kids learn to wield bush knives from a young age - this young girl expertly cracked open a sprouting coconut for us to taste the "navara" inside.
Kids from the village
All smiles - the children lined up to see the pictures of themselves on our cameras
On our last night the pikinini treated us to a custom dance, followed by an impromptu sing-a-long with the chief and his guitar
Three islands of Vanuatu down, only another 79 or so to tick off the list…