First week

Week One (and a bit) on this hot, steamy but insanely beautiful island complete. I thought I’d start my blog with a selection of photos to set the scene for my year ahead (and perhaps convince some potential visitors to start booking flights for a visit sometime in the next 12 months). It has been a week of new experiences – new culture, new language, new food, new climate, new friends and the usual navigating your way around a new city. But I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

Day One in Vanuatu and the sunset didn’t disappoint. We sat down for pizza at a harbour-side café and witnessed the most amazing stormy sunset in between steamy rain showers. It definitely made up for the early morning airport run and last minute packing stress of what to take to a developing country for 12 months… It did feel strange lining up in the ‘residents’ queue coming through immigration into Port Vila, rather than ‘tourists’ queue!

 Bislama lessons started straight away on Day 2 with Ni-Vanuatu teacher George from the island of Ambrum. Vanuatu is made up of over 80 islands (Port Vila is on the island of Efate), each with their own distinct culture, traditions and language – there are over 100 languages spoken across Vanuatu, making it one of the most linguistically diverse nations in the world. Bislama is the official language and a form of pidgin English used the bridge the language barrier across islands. A very fun language to learn and quite easy to pick up, plus it is all written phonetically so easy to read with my Speechie background! After one week of lessons I can now hold a simple conversation, and its fun to practice with bus drivers and shop owners – they love to see you making an effort. As part of our orientation we went for a wander through the markets – this is a coconut crab and yes, he is as big as he looks, with claws strong enough to cut down coconuts from the top of coconut palms. Wouldn’t want to meet one of these in a dark alley..!

Three nights a week, this is the backdrop for the local outdoor cinema, showing current blockbusters as well as kids’ films and art house movies for free (or for the cost of a drink from the café). I may soon become a regular here!

 Siviri – a seaside village on the north coast of Efate island, about half an hour drive from Port Vila, and the destination for our three-day village stay. With no electricity and no hot water, the houses are basic and the food is fresh and grown locally. This is my host mama and papa, and host sister Anthea, who took me in and astounded me with their generosity and welcoming nature. The village system is based on a hierarchy with the chief as head of the village, and responsible for mediating disputes and maintaining law and order. My papa is a church elder and spokesperson for the chief, so is quite involved in the church and religious and traditional ceremonies.

On Sunday I donned an island dress (a very unflattering loose-fitting brightly-coloured dress similar to the one worn here by my host mama, which made me very glad for no mirrors in the village and ensured I left my camera at home..!) and accompanied my host family to church. Church was held in the next village, meaning a bumpy ride on the back tray of a truck, me being the only white person amongst an array of Ni-Vanuatu men, women, children and the occasional chicken. Quite an amazing cultural experience.

Baby Merilyn (aka Lyn) is the 5 month old daughter of one of my host sisters, making me “smol mama Susannah” (anyone who we would call an aunt in Western society is a mama here). The saying “it takes a village to raise a child” is well and truly in full swing in the village, with everyone looking out for one another, children especially, as one big family.

We were lucky enough to be in the village for Chief’s Day and the blessing of the yams. New yams are picked and given as an offering to the chief, with prayers, songs and blessing of the yams. After the ceremony, the yams are then cooked and a big feast is prepared to mark the start of the yam season. All ceremonies and church services are accompanied by lots of singing and clapping – I could listen to their harmonies and swelling choruses all day! 

After only 3 days in the village, I have been welcomed into my host family and encouraged to return to ‘kakae’ (eat) or stay the night anytime in the next 12 months. I think I will definitely take them up on the offer!

Well I think that sums up my first week in my new island home. I start work on Monday so I still have another few days to chill, explore and get things sorted. I did also get through the week: without eating turtle or fruit bat (to my knowledge); surviving my first (and possibly only) kava experience; and only coming down with a small bout of sickness (not necessarily related to the kava) - but those stories for another time.

Until next time, lukim yu bakagen!