Some simple truths...

Accepting simple truths of life in Vanuatu… (aka some things I have had to learn to live with):

1.         Rubbish disposal is all but non-existent. The garbage truck is very rarely in operation. Public bins are full to overflowing. You occasionally pass people carrying out a weekend clean-up bagging up litter from the side of the road, but it is a scratch on the surface of the endless litter lining the verges. I even came across one child being scolded when she threw her twisty packet into a bush and it blew back out onto the road, as quite clearly she should have “thrown it into the bush properly!”

2.         The Vanuatu people have not mastered road drainage. Or road maintenance for that matter. Any bus trip is an off-road adventure, with pot holes the size of small elephants and puddles to the bumper after heavy rain. There was a bus strike last week as a protest against the state of the roads (no evidence yet whether this achieved anything).

3.         Safety has a loose definition. There are no such things as seatbelts. You will often detour via a service station when on a bus, where the driver will proceed to put fuel in the car with the engine still running. It is not unusual to see workmen balancing precariously on scaffolding meters high in bare feet, or operating an angle grinder in thongs (and they’ve never even heard of safety goggles).

4.         Time is a fluid concept, as is distance. If asked how far, you are likely to receive an answer of “klosap long wei” (translated as “close up that way”). One hour could mean half an hour, or could mean 3 hours. Most questions are answered as “yes” regardless on whether they mean it or not.

This brings me to my Easter Trekking experience. A last minute decision to fly to Malekula for Easter to complete the 4-day Manbush Trail Walk turned into the most gruelling and exhausting hike of my life, with some hard-hitting truths of some of the above lessons.

Let me start out by saying the brochure looked very innocent, with photos of happy faces and middle-aged couples going for a leisurely stroll in the bush… WRONG! I guess tourism is a new concept on some of the islands, and expectations of Western travellers are a bit different to what the locals perceive.

Our small plane - which may or may not have had engine troubles...

We started out on Thursday, with a morning flight to Malekula from Vila. We boarded our small 18-seater plane, only to fly a lap over Vila and promptly land again. Engine issues apparently, so we were all ordered to disembark and wait in the airport for further instruction. About an hour later, we were asked to reboard (the engineers couldn’t find anything wrong) and set off again for our hour flight to Norsup, Malekula. We did make it thankfully, but the delay set back the start of our walk.

 The view flying over Vila 

 Norsup airport

The truck picked us up from the airport (truck = literally sitting on the back tray of a ute) to drive us to the start of the walk, however before too long we came across a section of road that was so far underwater that even the 4wd truck couldn’t cross. The only option? Get out and walk across – another truck would pick us up on the other side. So began our first 100m waist-deep river crossing, carrying our packs and all our gear with us.

Another truck did pick us up and take us to the start of the trail. By this time it was getting close to 4pm, and the tour guide gave us the option of starting the trek then and possibly walking the last part of the day’s distance in the dark with torches, or staying in a nearby village for the night and starting off the next day. As we all had head torches and were reassured the track was quite safe, we opted to start the walk so we weren’t too far behind schedule.

It was only after starting out that they informed us about the 10 additional river crossings to complete before reaching the village where we were to stay for the night. And not just ankle deep streams – these were waist-deep fast-flowing rivers (thanks to a small cyclone the weekend before), the final five of which were crossed in the dark. Not ideal and I still can’t believe we all got through without one of us falling in the drink, packs and all, but we eventually made it to the village with soggy feet by about 8pm.

 One of many river crossings - this one in daylight thankfully!

The villagers seemed a little frazzled at our arrival, but found us a hut to stay in (with thin woven pandanas mats to sleep on) and prepared us a meal of island cabbage (local spinach) and boiled taro. A shower consisted of wet wipes, and we crashed out to sleep (best we could on a hard ground with no pillow).

Our hut on the first night

Some local village children

The next morning, we were greeted with breakfast of more island cabbage, this time with boiled banana. Not the most appetising breakfast, but we sensed the need for energy for the day’s walk ahead so managed to eat our fill. We set off on a steep decline down a slippery, muddy path and soon discovered this was meant to be part of the walk completed yesterday, but due to the increasing darkness the guides had decided to stop for the night at a closer village (the reactions of the village then made more sense, they really weren’t expecting us!)

Green as far as the eye can see

More rivers to cross

Friday’s walk involved some stunning scenery, with vine-covered rainforest broken up by tropical flowers and the odd garden planted by a not-so-nearby village. However it was difficult to enjoy the scenery after a while whilst putting all concentration into foot placement so as not to slide down a muddy cliff as we climbed an 800m high mountain. Less river crossings on day 2, but we found that wet shoes + mud + steepness made for some sore muscles and physical and mental exhaustion. We also soon discovered that “meals included” did not include lunch, and so between us we shared out our dried fruit and nuts, muesli bars and crackers dipped in peanut butter for energy along the way.

Up up up!

Spot the forced smiles...

The brochure had indicated 6 hrs of walking on day 2. After walking for 7 hrs, we asked how much further we had to go, and were given the response of “about an hour”. Two hours later, the response again was “about an hour”. With no roads and no other option but to keep moving forward, we just had to trust that we would get there eventually and keep putting one foot in front of the other.

Umbrella anyone??

As darkness settled in and the head torches were brought out once again, we finally stumbled on some civilisation. 10 hours after starting out, we scrambled up a steep hill to our hut for the night, quads aching and packs feeling heavy, only to scramble back down again to wash off the mud in the river best we could (the guys were alright, they could strip off to bathe but for us ladies it was fully clothed). Our guides brought us some laplap for dinner (ground taro or yams wrapped in leaves and cooked in coconut milk) and we tried to find some dry clothes for sleeping.

Our hut, night 2

Muddy and waterlogged - my poor sneakers may never recover!

One toe casualty... Ouch!

We requested to set off early the next morning so as to get as much walking done in daylight as possible. Although 7am soon became 8.30 by the time they brought us some boiled banana for brekkie. The clouds looked ominous as we set off for day 3, and the rain soon started, making the muddy slopes even slipperier than the day before. This time it was two big mountains to climb up and then back down again. At one point we reached the top of a waterfall; a spectacular view until we saw the muddy cliff beside the waterfall that we were expected to navigate down. If I wasn’t concentrating so hard on ensuring I stayed upright it would have been quite scary. As I said, safety has a relatively loose definition. The swim at the bottom was a small salvation and a sigh of relief before heading off for mountain number two.

 Laplap

Boiled banana

Wan bigfala waterfall

The final hour of walking on day three (another 10 hour day but we finished in daylight thankfully) should be classified as more of a stumble than a walk. I don’t think my legs have ever been more tired, and it was mostly the thought of a hot meal and an actual mattress for the night that gave me the energy to keep going. Fish with rice has never tasted so good, and the thin mattress felt like sleeping on a cloud!

We made it!

So that brought us to the end of our walk. We still can’t work out why a walk that was meant to take 4 days was condensed to 2 ½ days. The Sunday and Monday were then spent taking a leisurely three hour boat trip back up the coast to Norsup, and then waiting around for half a day for our flight back to Vila, so we weren’t exactly pressed for time.

 Our boat back to Norsup

Our group and guides

I forgot to mention, our ni-Van tour guide and porters (who carried our heavy gear) completed the whole 50 or 60kms bare-foot and looked like they still had miles left in them at the end!

I’m still not entirely sure I could say I enjoyed the walk after crossing the island from east to west, although it was a good challenge and there is definitely a sense of achievement for having made it. I would have liked a medal or at least a certificate at the end so there was something to show, but I guess the photos will have to do! What a way to celebrate my birthday weekend!

Time flies when you're having fun!

I sit here on my balcony overlooking Erakor lagoon; a jungle-like garden of frangipani, passionfruit, banana, pamplemousse (sweet grapefruit), coconut, pawpaw and mango trees the only thing separating my vantage point from the water. The tropical rain falls relentlessly; a calming, soothing break from the humidity of the last couple of days. Rainy Sundays are good for the soul. Nothing to do but read, watch a movie, bake muffins, and finally update my blog.

 My view - slightly drier and sunnier than right at this minute...

My first month in Vila has been and gone – I’m not quite sure where it has gone either! It feels like only yesterday we stepped off the plane, eyes bright with anticipation, and were greeted with fresh leis by our in-country manager Lou.

I have settled into a comfortable routine involving a 28hr working week (its too hot to work longer than that, who I am to argue with that logic!), yoga classes, morning swims, weekly outdoor movies and Wednesday night trivia. The Vila expat community is fairly small, with lots of impromptu social events and casual catch-ups – a Saturday night bonfire on a deserted beach beneath a stunning starlit sky; a free concert involving an eclectic mix of ni-Vanuatu youths playing and singing reggae music in Bislama; an afternoon hanging out by the pool at a nearby resort; lunchtime slack-lining in the harbourside park surrounded by local onlookers (slack-line: a nylon tape strung between two trees, similar to tight rope walking, harder than it looks but a lot of fun!).

And yes, I finally moved into my place, after house hopping for nearly 4 weeks until my room became available. A great way to meet other volunteers and learn my way around Vila by staying a few nights with various people when they had a spare room, but was so nice to finally unpack the suitcase and have a space of my own. I have been pretty lucky to find a room in a house right on the lagoon with two lovely French volunteers, Laure and Remy. A big open plan living area and kitchen with plenty of space for visitors to come and stay (hint hint) and a huge balcony with 180 degree views of the lagoon and beyond – a pretty special sight to wake up to in the morning.

 Home sweet home.

Work is going really well – the organisation is pretty bare bones with very few resources and only three other staff working at the Vanuatu Society for Disabled People, but a lot of potential to get some things happening. I started up an early intervention group in my second week of work, with 7 pikaninis (children) coming in the first week, and 9 pikaninis last week (maybe 11 this week?). It’s a bit of a catch-22, not wanting the group to get too big too quickly without any funding to support it, but its great that there’s such a good initial response. It is very interesting trying to run a group in broken Bislama, but I’m getting by and constantly improving. The kids attending have a range of disabilities – Autism, Cerebral Palsy, Downs Syndrome, and a large proportion undiagnosed. Black magic and superstition play a big part of the Vanuatu beliefs system, and the local paper often has front page reports of people being jailed for admitting to using black magic against an estranged spouse/jealous ex-partner. There are still some strong beliefs around black magic playing a part in a child’s disability, and for this reason a lot of families are reluctant to seek medical help or a diagnosis. This seems to be particularly prevalent in the outer islands, less so in Vila and most of the families attending my group seem to be a bit more accepting and open about seeking support and accepting advice. But certainly a barrier to service delivery that I have not encountered before!

Clearing out the therapy room - the wall was painted by inmates from the Women's Prison next door to VSDP! 

I’m slowly making connections with other organisations and people working with disabilities throughout Vanuatu. There is a New Zealand Volunteer working on the island of Malekula who is working on a sign language specific to Vanuatu (up until now signing and very much been dependant on whether it is an Aussie, Kiwi or American teaching a deaf person to sign, so lots of variation throughout the nation). There is also an organisation on Santo who seem to be doing some great things lobbying for disability and obtaining funding for various projects and programs, so I’m keen to see how they’re doing it and whether VSDP could take a leaf out of their book. Also hoping to touch base with the Paediatrician and ENT at the hospital to see what they can offer to children and what their referral system is, costs involved etc. There is not a lot documented on how the system all works (a lot of the time that’s because there are no policies or procedures) or what the correct pathways are, so as my Bislama improves I am hoping to strengthen these connections. There seem to be a lot of people wanting to help and hoping to improve services, but at the moment not a lot of communication between stakeholders, so a lot of people working in isolation.

I’m also picking up some individual clients here and there; coordinating a visit by an organisation from New Zealand coming in June to bring wheelchairs and conduct seating assessments for children on Efate (a steep learning curve); and fast realising there really is no such thing as scope of practice here!

I am breaking up the work with plenty of leisure, and yesterday I started my PADI Open Water Diving course on Hideaway Island, completing the confined water dive skills. I’m planning on finishing this over the next couple of weeks, and looking forward to putting these skills to use over the coming months. It’s so amazing to be able to breathe underwater, a great challenge, and lots to see around the islands here. A whole new underwater world to discover!

 All suited up ready to head underwater.

A well-earned mango daiquiri during post-dive Happy Hour.

Dive school outlook - there is an underwater post office out there somewhere...

I’m taking the opportunity over the Easter long weekend (also happens to be my birthday weekend) to do some trekking on Malekula, the second largest island in Vanuatu renowned for volcanoes and a history of cannibalism, and a half hour plane flight from Vila. There is a walk called the Manbush Trail that I am doing with a few other volunteers, walking through villages and bushland, sleeping in huts on woven mats, eating ‘aelan kaekae’ (local food) and experiencing kastom life. Predict lots of photos to follow!

My first visitors arrive in two weeks, with Mum and Dad coming over for a week. I’m looking forward to playing tour guide and impressing them with my Bislama skills.

Well the clouds seem to be parting and the sun is peeking through once again. I may relocate my book-reading and Sunday-relaxing to a poolside nearby with a fresh juice. Wishing everyone a safe and happy Easter with whatever you may have planned.

Look forward to hearing from you all soon.

Ale tata.

Suz.

First week

Week One (and a bit) on this hot, steamy but insanely beautiful island complete. I thought I’d start my blog with a selection of photos to set the scene for my year ahead (and perhaps convince some potential visitors to start booking flights for a visit sometime in the next 12 months). It has been a week of new experiences – new culture, new language, new food, new climate, new friends and the usual navigating your way around a new city. But I’ll let the pictures do the talking…

Day One in Vanuatu and the sunset didn’t disappoint. We sat down for pizza at a harbour-side café and witnessed the most amazing stormy sunset in between steamy rain showers. It definitely made up for the early morning airport run and last minute packing stress of what to take to a developing country for 12 months… It did feel strange lining up in the ‘residents’ queue coming through immigration into Port Vila, rather than ‘tourists’ queue!

 Bislama lessons started straight away on Day 2 with Ni-Vanuatu teacher George from the island of Ambrum. Vanuatu is made up of over 80 islands (Port Vila is on the island of Efate), each with their own distinct culture, traditions and language – there are over 100 languages spoken across Vanuatu, making it one of the most linguistically diverse nations in the world. Bislama is the official language and a form of pidgin English used the bridge the language barrier across islands. A very fun language to learn and quite easy to pick up, plus it is all written phonetically so easy to read with my Speechie background! After one week of lessons I can now hold a simple conversation, and its fun to practice with bus drivers and shop owners – they love to see you making an effort. As part of our orientation we went for a wander through the markets – this is a coconut crab and yes, he is as big as he looks, with claws strong enough to cut down coconuts from the top of coconut palms. Wouldn’t want to meet one of these in a dark alley..!

Three nights a week, this is the backdrop for the local outdoor cinema, showing current blockbusters as well as kids’ films and art house movies for free (or for the cost of a drink from the café). I may soon become a regular here!

 Siviri – a seaside village on the north coast of Efate island, about half an hour drive from Port Vila, and the destination for our three-day village stay. With no electricity and no hot water, the houses are basic and the food is fresh and grown locally. This is my host mama and papa, and host sister Anthea, who took me in and astounded me with their generosity and welcoming nature. The village system is based on a hierarchy with the chief as head of the village, and responsible for mediating disputes and maintaining law and order. My papa is a church elder and spokesperson for the chief, so is quite involved in the church and religious and traditional ceremonies.

On Sunday I donned an island dress (a very unflattering loose-fitting brightly-coloured dress similar to the one worn here by my host mama, which made me very glad for no mirrors in the village and ensured I left my camera at home..!) and accompanied my host family to church. Church was held in the next village, meaning a bumpy ride on the back tray of a truck, me being the only white person amongst an array of Ni-Vanuatu men, women, children and the occasional chicken. Quite an amazing cultural experience.

Baby Merilyn (aka Lyn) is the 5 month old daughter of one of my host sisters, making me “smol mama Susannah” (anyone who we would call an aunt in Western society is a mama here). The saying “it takes a village to raise a child” is well and truly in full swing in the village, with everyone looking out for one another, children especially, as one big family.

We were lucky enough to be in the village for Chief’s Day and the blessing of the yams. New yams are picked and given as an offering to the chief, with prayers, songs and blessing of the yams. After the ceremony, the yams are then cooked and a big feast is prepared to mark the start of the yam season. All ceremonies and church services are accompanied by lots of singing and clapping – I could listen to their harmonies and swelling choruses all day! 

After only 3 days in the village, I have been welcomed into my host family and encouraged to return to ‘kakae’ (eat) or stay the night anytime in the next 12 months. I think I will definitely take them up on the offer!

Well I think that sums up my first week in my new island home. I start work on Monday so I still have another few days to chill, explore and get things sorted. I did also get through the week: without eating turtle or fruit bat (to my knowledge); surviving my first (and possibly only) kava experience; and only coming down with a small bout of sickness (not necessarily related to the kava) - but those stories for another time.

Until next time, lukim yu bakagen!

Welcome to The Vanuatu Project, the blog that will follow my journey as I undertake a 12 month AVID (Australian Volunteers for International Development) assignment in Port Vila, Vanuatu. I hope to entertain and enlighten you with experiences and adventures; frustrations and celebrations; photos, quotes and snippets of the simple life... my new island life.

‎"If at some point you don’t ask yourself, ‘What have I gotten myself into?’ then you’re not doing it right.” — Roland Gau


Photo courtesy of Flickr.